This modern flanker to Knize Ten clearly derives from the iconic original, differing most obviously in its sweeter, smoother top notes, its more conspicuous fruit and floral middle notes, and a mellower drydown that relies less heavily on labdanum and castoreum.

With its far softer contours, Golden Edition is more amiable than today’s version of the 1925 original, but also more conventional. Where the original Knize Ten is confrontational to many noses, Golden Edition is nothing short of cuddly. Its plush surface and abundant fruit align it more closely with modern fruity “suede” fragrances like Daim Blond than with the classic leather chypres that followed the original. Golden Edition is rich and comfortable, but I miss Knize Ten’s bold stance and craggy profile.

Year: 2000

Perfumer: François Coty, Vincent Roubert, reorchestrated under Heinz Gottschalk

Notes: petitgrain, orange, rosemary, bergamot, lemon, cedar, sandalwood, geranium, iris, rose, carnation, cinnamon, leather, ambergris, musk, moss, vanilla, castoreum